Winter Bike Maintenance Checklist

1A thorough clean, to see clearly

• Frame and fork: full clean with soapy water, no pressure washer too close to the bearings
• Drivetrain: degreasing the chain, derailleur and cassette — this is often where the real surprises hide
• A clean bike is a bike on which you instantly spot a crack, a leak or abnormal wear
• Tip: there are some excellent YouTube tutorials for a proper step-by-step clean — feel free to use them, it's simple and saves a huge amount of time

2The drivetrain, up close

• Chain wear: a chain wear indicator (inexpensive) tells you in 5 seconds whether it needs replacing
• Cassette and chainrings: "shark fin" shaped teeth mean advanced wear — keep an eye on it
• Derailleurs: clean settings, crisp gear shifts, no noise or hesitation
• Lubrication: chain relubricated after cleaning, excess wiped off so it doesn't collect dust
• Tip: again, the internet is full of tutorials for checking wear yourself with a simple chain wear tool — if you're interested, you'll learn fast, and you'll know when a part genuinely needs replacing

3The brakes, no compromise

• Pads: enough material left, no metal-on-metal contact
• Discs or braking surfaces: not warped, no deep grooves
• Cables and hoses: no damaged housing, no fluid leak on hydraulic brakes
• This is the one area where you should never compromise — if in doubt, have it checked

4Wheels and tyres

• Tyre wear: knobs or tread still present, no cracking
• Pressure: suited to your riding and checked regularly, even when not in use
• Trueness and play: spin each wheel, check it doesn't rub and that there's no play in the hub
• Spokes: none broken or loose to the touch

5Headset and suspension

• Headset play: brake at the front and rock the bike back and forth — any play is felt immediately
• Suspension (if MTB): pressure checked, no oil leak, clean stanchions
• Tip: fine-tuning a fork or shock is a whole topic in itself — good videos exist to understand the basics (sag, rebound, compression), useful if you want to progress on this point

6Everything else, at a glance

• Bolts: torque checked (stem, saddle, bottle cages, pedals)
• Frame: no cracks, especially around welds and the bottom bracket shell
• Electronic wiring if fitted (E-MTB): clean connectors, battery charged to half for storage

7Storing it well for winter

• Dry storage, away from the moisture that attacks chains and bearings
• Tyre pressure slightly reduced if the bike won't be ridden for several weeks
• Chain lightly oiled before a long break, to prevent rust

One last word: you don't have to do everything yourself, and you don't need to be an expert mechanic. But if you feel like learning, the web is full of good free resources, and every skill you pick up saves time and money over the long run — not to mention the satisfaction of understanding your own bike. It's up to you, no pressure: what matters is that your bike is ready.